7/15/10—60F—70%H—Santa Elena

I wake up early again and make eggs. I think I am getting the hand of this. Our Green Hermit and Violet Saberwing are back. Unfortunately, the weather here is erratic and what began as a pleasant morning has degenerated into a downpour. Israel meets us and tells us that although the forest would be beautiful, hiking to the Santa Elena Preserve is out of the question.

Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve

We go to the cars instead. I drive with Israel and Sarah in his blue pickup. We learn much about his family, including his wife’s battle with leukemia, epilepsy, and osteoporosis, his daughter’s education (one, coincidentally, is studying at Nichols High School in Buffalo) and his experiences in the rainforest.

All of us arrive at the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. I am initially struck by the low numbers of people here, but this could be explained by the rain. Beginning the hike, we enter 20 year old primary forest. The climate becomes wetter and wetter as we gain altitude, peaking at a ridge. Ricardo points out leaves of the begonia family, which are identifiable due to their asymmetrical leaves and toothed edges. He also shows us costas, which have spirals, as well as solenacae, which are tomato-like plants with alternating leaves and a red fruit. In front of us, a Slaty Nightengale-thrush bobs up the trail. As we are at a lower elevation than La Georgina, we encounter more diversity of trees, vascular plants, and bryophytes. We see many aerial roots, which are developed by epiphytic plants for more efficient nutrient uptake. Thanks to the moisture here, they do not dry up.

A huge gap, probably a result of high winds in January, is pointed out. Here, tree ferns, rapid colonizers, are seen in abundance.  Ricardo shows us a perfoliate plant, which has its stem in the middle of the leaf. He also notes that the higher elevation makes the trees smaller and cooler temperatures make lianas and climbers uncommon.

Hiking in the cloud forest

Professor Israel, as we lovingly call him, explains that the candle-like flowers of piperaceae are a food source for bats. Also the cecropia leaves that fall here provide hiding spots for insects and other animals in the understory.

Caterpillar

As we pass through more primary forest on the other, drier side of the ridge, Israel says that he saw a Quetzal fly by. I wish I had his eyes. A Quetzal sighting would be very rare now, as they are much more active earlier in the year when they are looking for mates. Despite that, we see a mixed flock including a Grey-breasted Wood Wren, Bush Tanager, and a Redstart. A hummingbird interested by my red coat hovers but an inch away from me. Discovering that I am not a flower, he darts away, his iridescence shining in the sun.

Exiting the park, I spot a big black bird in the undergrowth. This is a Black Guan. We eat lunch and head back to the cabin. Before dinner we talk about coevolution, the evolution of two species together as a result of pressure put on each other. This can be caused by mutualistic, parasitic, and predatory relationships. After dinner, we once again are treated to fireflies. It is nice to forget the would-haves, could-haves, should-haves of the day and simply clear the mind. I am amazed by the silent beauty of this place as we watch the sun set. The cloud forest calls to me with its sounds, in a whisper; nearly inaudibly, but it is intoxicating. The deep greens of vegetation shrouded in blue grey mist excite my eye. the smell of fresh air, clean water and dark decaying leaves fill my nose, and the sound of silence rings out deafeningly.

Jeff, Sarah, Bryan, and I go out on a night hike. We see a number of spiders and walking sticks, but nothing else.

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7/14/10—63F—70%H—Aula Global

I wake up early in the morning to do some bird watching. I spot an Emerald Toucanette flying across the front of the porch. This bird has a large yellow and purple bill much like a toucan, but is smaller and colored a brilliant emerald green. We also see a Slate-throated Redstart flitting around the cecropias in front of the porch. It is a small black, sparrow-sized bird with a yellow breast and rusty path atop its head. Jeff put a number of hummingbird feeders around the porch. Soon we pick up a number of bird friends. A Green Hermit, a large green trap lining hummingbird frequents our feeders. Trap lining hummers go to a set order of flowers for nectar. In this way, they have a nearly constant supply and the flowers are pollinated regularly and in a order conducive to their reproduction. A Purple-throated Mountain Gem and Violet Sabrewing, both hummingbirds, come by to check out the feeders. It is nice to simply sit here and not think. Instead, we just exist in that point in space and in that point in time. We also spot a Ruddy Pigeon, a Common Bush-Tanager, whose green and yellow form can often be seen leading mixed feeding flocks, and a Tropical Parula, which has a blue-grey back and yellow-orange chest.

Green Hermit

After breakfast, we move up the hill for a field trip. Over the day, we reach 5,000-6,000 feet. We see some orchids. These flowers have complex reproductive structures geared specifically for pollination by Euglossine bees. Many of the bees pollinate just a single type of orchid. In return, the orchids produce chemicals which contribute to the bees’ longevity.

The moss is similar in color to that found at La Georgina. We also see bromiliads and palm fruit. Further up the trail, we see a heliocampus, a tree with what is known as sunfruit. This early successional tree puts all of its energy into growth, and as a result, has no chemical defenses and often has holes in its leaves.

An eracea elephant ear with its characteristic Jack-in-the-Pulpit-esque flower and heart shaped leaves is found. An aricacea, with is leathery leaves is also found nearby. Due to the dampness of the area, leafy liverworts dominate. This corresponds to the increase in nonvascular plants with an increase in elevation. Nonvascular plants can grow where they cannot in lower elevations, like on vascular plants. this happens because at lower elevations there is more heat and desiccation. There are also fewer flycatchers and insects for vascular plant pollination. Nonvascular plants, on the other hand, only need water for reproduction. Here there is so much water and so many non-vascular plants, that old leaves will become overgrown with bryophytes.

Also near the cabin is a ceracia, a composite flower (multiple flowers in the same head). The ceracia goes from herbaceous to woody. These belong to the rubiaceae, which is part of the coffee family.

Ricardo points out two types of stranglers: figs and eclusea. The figs start out on other trees’ bark and have alternate leaves, while the eclusea starts primarily on branches and have oppositely arranged leaves.

On a stump we find a number of bryophytes. There is a turquoise basidial lichen, which has gorgeous green swirls of color, thallus liverworts, which are flat, club, feather (more common with less moisture stress), filmy, and cushion moss (adapted for drier conditions). Ricardo also shows us a nearby strange seed pod. This brown legume is called makina and is a host plant for Morpho butterfly larvae. It also has a painful urticating hairs. While smelling it (it has an almondy smell), I accidentally stick my nose a bit too close and get pricked. Naturally.

Makina

Terrestrial crab

Basidial lichen

A nearby piperaceae, with its candle-like inflorescence/flowers and jointed stem, catches our eye. Nearby is a jelly lichen, as well as a foliose/thallus lichen. We also see a club moss and spike moss, both of which are not true mosses, but are vascular.

Filmy fern

Tree fern

Piperaceae

On a nearby stump, we see liverworts which are very green. Most lichen are leathery and dull colored. There is also a hornwort. This bryophyte is thinner than liverworts, which have scalloped thali. Hornworts, on the other hand, have a long pole that splits as its reproductive structure. It takes part in sexual reproduction, as it involves spores. Thalus liverworts have two kinds of reproduction: sexual and asexual. They have little reproductive cups which produce gemmae inside. This is asexual reproduction. It also has a palm tree-like reproductive structure which is sexual (spores).

Toward the end of the hike, we pass through primary forest, where we hear black-bellied wood quail and see a fantastically colored walking stick.

Big tree in primary forest

Walking stick

After lunch, the trail crew heads up with Ricardo to fix up the trail. I spot a weevil and some leaf cutters, which is odd for this elevation.

We have a dinner discussion about the Montaverde are, some of which I already mentioned, after which we study for the upcoming test.

Late at night, we stand out on the porch watching fireflies. Their flashing amazes me, as I rarely see them at home. I recall how sometimes they self-organize to synchronicity. Fascinating behavior, but their sporadic glowing is enough to hypnotize me to slumber.

Evening in the cloud forest

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7/13/10—63F—100%H—Santa Elena

We wake up and head to the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve in the Montaverde region of the country. On the road there, we see moist forest transform to rice, banana, and palm oil plantations. It is truly a harrowing sight to see the most diverse ecosystem stripped down to a monoculture for pure economic and industrial efficiency. The housing and working conditions for the imported Nicaraguan labor is also horrendous.

Our caravan drives into Santa Elena. We stop and eat at a small bakery. There is a high gringo presence here, as a result of the tourist industry. I find walking amongst the gringos to be boring and left me with a bad taste in my mouth. Where are the Ticos? I can only imagine the culture shock when we return to the US. Most people here discuss their plans for going on ATV tours or zip lining. This is disappointing, as it has driven the commercialization of this fantastic area, overdevelopment, leading to infrastructure problems and deforestation, and does not provide any real appreciation for the natural world here. It is nothing more than a cheap thrill for these people. That is not to say that ecotourism cannot be a positive force in protecting the environment. This model, however, is not sustainable.

Orchids

We meet Israel, our guide to Aula Global. He is a stout man with bright, flashing eyes. We drive to the parking lot a few miles from the cabins at which we will be staying. I pack extra fruit and milk in my pack. Just as we begin the trek, we see a small orchid. It is white and very pretty. It is, however, quite different than the large orchids you see in florist shops. Unfortunately, the rain begins as we disembark down the trail. Soon, it is absolutely torrential. I pray that my trash bag lined backpack will keep my clothes dry. Despite the rain, I am having a fantastic time. This is an experience that I will likely never forget: walking in the cloud forest during a torrential rain storm. Crossing the foot wide fallen tree bridges over fast flowing rivers, climbing over steep muddy embankments, and hiking down muddy slot canyons gives me unexpected pleasure. Interesting little mud stalagmites form as a result of the falling rain, much like the limestone pinnacles in Madagascar. We finally reach our cabin. It is spacious with a ladder leading up to a bunk. It is a fantastic spot. We unload the food. I am amazed at how much we brought, but I suppose that is what it takes to feed 21 people for three days. Also, I find that my clothes are all dry.

Cloud Forest

Unfortunately, we discover that there is no running water to the cabin. The faucet which pumps water from the river must have clogged with sediment. So, Noah and I go stumbling through the dark with a 20 gallon bin. We find a stream and fill it up using a cup. As the water level slowly rises, we wonder how we are going to carry this back to the cabin. We pick up the huge weight and groan under the strain. We slowly plod up the slick, muddy trail with our heavy, precious cargo, carrying it like the Ark of the Covenant. The water spilling as we trip and slip over roots drenches us more than the rain, chilling us to the bone. We continue our journey slipping and sliding in the mud and the pitch black darkness until, after a nearly hour-long ordeal, we reach the cabin.  Ricardo cooks up some rice and pesto and green beans with garlic. It is very filling and quite tasty. Exhausted, we quickly fall asleep on our sleeping pads.

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7/12/10—80F—51%H—TFI

I wake up to go birding. This morning, we are treated to observing the national bird of Costa Rica: the Clay-colored Robin, which is a surprisingly dully colored selection for the country’s avian pride. We also see a Long-billed Starthroat, a hummingbird with a blue cap and very long bill. Finally, we see the aptly named White-shouldered Tanager.

After breakfast, we take more trees up to the bean field. On our way up, we see a Lineated Woodpecker, which is about the same size as the Pale-billed Woodpecker, but has only a red crest. There is also a big owl butterfly with a yellow eye-spot on the back of its wing which I have seen in the same place on the bean field trail for the past few days.

Owl butterfly

After dropping off our trees, we head back down the hill to do trail work. We decide to change the path near the stairs again by making another switchback in the trail. Once the machete work is done, we pick out an edge in the trail to make it flatter and easier to pass. We then move up to a higher portion of trail. At one point while machete chopping, Sarah cut a liana and a large branch fell but a foot away from me. Naturally, she is very apologetic. At any rate, no harm, no foul, but this is an example of what can happen here. The forest is physically connected by a network of lianas, mycorrhizae, and tangled branches. One small chop can bring something big from the top crashing down. That is a perfect metaphor for the interconnectedness of living systems and how they interact nonlinearly. We finish the switchback and pick it out. Sarah leaves because she was still not feeling 100 percent. Bryan and I work for nearly four hours today. I have to convince Bryan to finish the picking in the trail. The work is exhausting, but rewarding. It also makes the beer taste better.

After lunch we go to a local reptile zoo aptly named Reptilandia. They have an excellent collection of snakes and lizards from Costa Rica, and some from around the world. Perhaps my favorite was the emerald tree boa. It has a beautiful green color that is, as Steve Irwin would put it, “gorgeous!” The Komodo dragon is also interesting to observe. I particularly like how the plates had both Spanish and English. In this fashion, I learn new vocabulary like aves y pajaros (birds), serpientes, viperos, y culebras (snakes), ramas (frogs), murcielagos (bats), and sacco y mojado (dry and wet). Not all the snakes are out in the open and the banality of life in the cages makes me once again consider my stance on zoos. Although they can be a useful educational tool, they can also be depressing and cruel. Perhaps if all animals in zoos were captive bred or being rehabilitated then this ethical dilemma would not be an issue. Strolling in the garden is fun. It was nice to walk slowly and leisurely. I have not done this in quite some time. The one rule of strolling, I find, is that you must have your hands behind your back, as it signifies that you have no fear of falling. On our way out we learn that the owner was bitten by a venomous snake a few days ago. He was administered antivenin and made a full recovery. His passion is amazing to me, especially because it is a dangerous one.

We return to TFI. On the way back, I spot a Barred Antshrike, whose crest and black and white stripped coloration make him look like a jail bird (pun intended). I also see a Blue Dacnis, whose bright blue and black coloration and small size make him impossible to mistakenly identify. We also see a Violacious Trogon, which is a medium size sallying frugivore, that is, he will fly up and dive down, grabbing fruit from trees as he flies. His red orbital ring, purple head, yellow breast, and black and white striped tail makes him easy to identify.

Back at base, we talk about the vast diversity of arthropods here in the tropics. Because of their great diversity and abundance, they in part drive the diversity higher up in the food web. During lecture, while I am scratching my arm, I notice a large bump on my elbow. Upon further investigation, I notice that it is an engorged tick! The little bloodsucker must have been on me for some time, judging from his size. He is quickly removed and terminated with extreme prejudice. After dinner, I pack for Montaverde trip and fall asleep.

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7/11/10—84F—90%H—TFI

With my head in the shape that it is in, I decide to sleep in. The allure of birds does not exceed my painfully dull and achy head. The shower is cold and brings me to life. On my way back to the cabin, I notice a steady trickle of ants going over the porch. Hopefully that is as far as they will go. I also notice that I have accumulated a large quantity of cuts, scrapes, and bruises over the last few days.

At breakfast, we learn that Sarah is not feeling well. She was vomiting and had a fever. I give her my antibiotics, as I have not had any intestinal problems.

We head up to the vine tangle again to do more planting. This time I only take ten trees. I seem to be a glutton for punishment. Today, I am on hole digging duty. This job is also difficult, as the vines’ roots are thick and matted. Although this prevents erosion, it also prevents anything else from growing.

Later, we work on projects. The trail crew is a bit in efficient, as we are down Sarah and I am not nearly at 100 percent. We work on the stair section of trail. This is a particularly steep and muddy section.  Ricardo did not like our switchback over an existing gully because it could not be spanned by a wooden bridge due to horses. The trails here are public thoroughfares, so we cannot prevent horses from tramping down our trails and wreaking havoc on the path system. Filling in the gully with soil would also not work as it would be washed away in a rain storm.

Working on the trails

We have a discussion on herpetology. In the tropics, the constantly warm temperatures and widely available food allow for a multitude of amphibians and snakes. After our lecture, we discover that the ants have overrun our cabin. I recall a short story about hordes of ants attacking a plantation. The plantation owner tries to put up barriers of fire and water, and yet he barely manages to survive, but not before his plantation is destroyed. I hope my clothes are safe. It would be a terrible fate to literally have ants in your pants.

After dinner we ask Jeff to go for a night hike with us. He initially agrees, but then rescinds because he must go with the girls to pick up their laundry. So, Bianca, Elise, Greg, and I go alone. The rainforest is a completely different place at night. I have grown accustomed to seeing everything during the day, and as a result my fear of venomous snakes has disappeared. At night, however, a fer-de-lance is under every log and a bushmaster is ready strike near every root. Our headlamps flash through the undergrowth and create odd shapes and shadows in the vegetation. Perhaps it is the fear of the unknown which drives our plodding pace as we search for frogs and snakes. We see little new: a few red and blue poison dart frogs and a frog species which we cannot identify. It is primarily a light gray color with flecks of orange. Night hikes put all of your senses to the test. Everything is at the height of its awareness. Your sense of smell and hearing seems heightened. Your sense of sight is focused on a small beam generated by the headlamp. As a result, you notice much more of what occurs around you, despite the wall of darkness that seems impenetrable by nothing save for your light and hides what lies around every corner.

Litter frog

Red and blue poison dart frog

Unknown frog

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